General Installation instructions

• Frame with the 2×6 or 2×8 EcoSmart™ Stud (ESS) just like your standard 2x exterior wall.
• Spacers or nubs face the exterior side for installation with the building sheathing.
• Solid side of the stud goes to the interior side of the building.
• Frame 16” or 24“ on center.  Observe other framing requirements when using at 24” on center advanced framing techniques.
• Standard solid top plates and bottom plate.
• Alternate plate assemblies can be used for advanced framing.
• The ESS can be used as a cripple stud. If the slot in the ESS is split where it touches the upper or lower framing, a nail needs to be placed on each side of the slot.
• The ESS can be used for header support.
• Nails for framing: 3″ or 3 1/2″ 0.131 box or better nails are used for assembling the framed wall.
• Nails for Sheathing: 2 3/8″, 2 1/2″ or 2 3/4″ 0.113 box nails or better for sheathing nails.
• Nailing pattern is standard, 6” on center on the perimeter and 12” on center in the field for non-high wind areas. In high wind areas follow the local code nailing pattern(s).
• Alternate nailing pattern: 6″ on center for the top and bottom plates. On the vertical perimeter studs place 2 sheathing nails in each nub 1 3/4″ apart from each nail. Do this for each nub on the on the vertical perimeter studs. See this PDF for more details.
• Spacers/nubs: 2×6 or 2×8 ESS are designed for direct contact between sheathing and the ESS for the 6/12 nailing pattern. For the field ESS stud install the nail in the spacer/nub.
• Spacer/Nubs: 2×6 or 2×8 ESS at the perimeter stud location for 6″ on center nailing, nails are installed into the spacer/nub and and also installed half way between the spacer/nubs.
• Perimeter Nails: 2×6 or 2×8 ESS for 7/16″ or 1/2″ sheathing, 2 3/8″ sheathing nails can be used to get 1” of penetration needed into the ESS for building code.
• Perimeter Nails: 2×6 or 2×8 ESS for 5/8 or 3/4″ sheathing ,2 1/2″ sheathing nails are needed for 1” of penetration needed into the ESS for building code.
• Perimeter nails: The 2×6 ESS Aux stud, 2 3/8″ sheathing nails can be used to attach sheathing for up to 1 1/4″ sheathing.
• Closed cell 2 lb spray foam installed along the perimeter ESS studs and plates. The closed cell 2 lb spray foam must fill the gap between the ESS perimeter studs and the sheathing. This for structural reinforcement
• The closed cell 2 lb spray foam must extend 2.5″ onto the the ESS perimeter vertical studs. 4″ onto the connected sheathing to the ESS perimeter studs and 4″ onto the plates and connected sheathing to the plates for structural reinforcement.
• For hybrid installations of 2×6 or 2×8 ESS where a solid 2×6 or 2×8 stud or a 2×6 ESS Aux is used at the perimeter stud locations, no 2 lb closed cell spray foam is needed for structural reinforcement.
• Closed cell 2 lb spray foam 1″ in depth minimum is required for standard 2×6 or 2×8 ESS standard or hybrid installations to meet 2021 Energy Code R-20 effective insulation requirement for exterior walls.
• Gas lines, electrical, low voltage can pass through the slots. No drilling is needed.
• If for any reason an individual ESS will not work in the wall assembly, simply use a solid 2×6 or 2×8 in its place.
• Plywood gussets can be used to reinforce the ESS if needed, if damaged in installation or by trade installs.

Windows

Good Solution: Use a solid 2×6 or 2×8 for the trimmers to support the header and top and bottom plate for ease of installation. Use the ESS for King stud on both sides and for cripple studs under the window.

Better Solution: For the 2×6 or 2×8 ESS, turn the ESS backwards so that the spacers/nubs face the interior side of the wall. The solid part of the stud now faces the nailing flange of the window. This is for the bottom plate along with the two trimmer studs supporting the header.  King studs are faced the correct way along with cripples under the window plate.

Best Solution: For 2×6 and 2×8 walls use the 2×6, 2×8 ESS for the king stud. For the trimmer stud, and sill plate plate use the 2×6,2×8 Jack/Trimmer stud. Make sure to line up slots. 2×6 or 2×8 ESS can be used for the cripple studs also.  Make sure nubs are lined up

Doors

Good Solution: Use solid stud for trimmer studs to support the header. Use standard ESS for the King studs on both sides of the header.

Better Solution: 2×6 and 2×8 walls use ESS studs as normal.  If the door has a nailing flange, turn the ESS around so the solid part of the stud faces the nailing flange.

Best Solution: 2×6 walls use 2×6 ESS Jack/Trimmer stud and 2×6 ESS for the King studs. For 2×8 Walls use a 2×4 and 2×3 for a complete thermal break.

All the Rest

Corners

For framing details on inside and outside Energy Corners click this LINK to download the PDF or visit our resource section to download the PDF. EcoSmart™Stud inside and outside Energy Corners are a mix of solid studs and ESS studs. A correctly framed corner is completely thermally broken and also structurally reinforced by the installed 2 lb closed cell spray foam.

Plumbing

While plumbing should not be in exterior walls, if a drain line is needed that will cut through an ESS, place a solid 2×6 or 2×8 stud(s) instead.  If a trade installer cuts a larger hole in an ESS during their install, plywood gussets can be attached to both sides of the stud for structural reinforcement.  Most electrical, low voltage, water supply lines, and gas lines will fit through the provided slots.

Posts

ESS can be used for posts, they are treated just like a solid 2×4 stud. In certain situations, they may need to be glued together along with being nailed. Make sure to align the slots/nubs before gluing.  Check with your local jurisdiction.

Multiple ESS together

When 2 or more ESS are together, they need to have the slots/nubs lined up so spray foam can be inserted during insulation. If one or more of the studs are not full length, the studs should be matched up before being put into the wall so that all slots and nubs will align for insulation. This is most common around windows. It is important the slots/nubs are lined up for nailing sheathing onto the ESS.

There is no top or bottom to the ESS.  Cut the needed shorter studs from each end first, leaving the middle part of the stud(s) to be used for other purposes, if necessary.